Design Culture
Vyshyvanka
The past month, the world’s spotlight has been on the Ukraine. We have come to know the bravery of the Ukrainian people, lead by the courageous Volodymyr Zelensky. We’ve watched them keep the Russian military at bay under impossible odds. However, if most westerners were asked what the Ukraine is like, we would picture a land filled with Soviet bloc buildings and Ukrainian Orthodox churches. One that maybe doesn’t look so different from how it did when the Soviet Union collapsed. A country that doesn’t look that different from Russia. What that misses, however, is the modern Ukraine.
This is the first of a three part series focusing on design in Ukraine that showcases the country’s roots with a view towards the future.
Vyshyvanka is the traditional Ukrainian costume known for its elaborately embroidered cloth. The tradition is so important that Vyshyvanka Day is celebrated the third Thursday in May. It has become a national symbol of pride. Vyshyvanka is still commonly worn on special days, like weddings and state holidays, and is a part of every day attire in some parts of the country.
Volodymyr and Olena Zelensky celebrating Vyshyvanka Day in 2020.
The Vyshvanka is seen as a talisman to those who wear it. Many of the patterns have different symbols that represent things like nature, protection, and fertility. You can check out some of the beautiful traditional patterns in the above short video.
The Vyshyvanka is not a relic of the past-it has been the inspiration for several fashion designers, some of whom have garnered international attention. These designers create modern folk fashion using traditional Ukrainian motifs.
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VITA KIN (www.vitakin.com) - Design house from Kiev that sells traditional embroidered clothing, table ware and even face masks (in the time of Covid).
“Our first collections were inspired by our own Ukrainian heritage and its famed embroidery methods and patterns. As our brand evolved, we began to study and implement other artisanal techniques developed and preserved through the ages by cultures from around the world.”
Oksana Karavanska(@oksanakaravanska Instagram) -Designer native to Lviv. She uses both traditional and modern embroidery in her designs. This interview at L' Oficiel provides some insight into her design process and her role as an “ethnic” designer.
Oksana Karavanska. Image Courtesy of Ukrainian Designer
My Sleeping Gypsy (https://mysleepinggypsy.art/) — “We aim to reestablish cultural heritage in a contemporary way, reconnect people to a knowledge of the past, the slow, the perfectly imperfect and the anthropological. A woman that is connected to her roots is strong both physically and spiritually.”
The clothing (artwork) from these designers are handmade investments pieces. This may the be time to make that kind of investment.